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Live plants or artificial can be used, though give yourself a clear area of substrate at the front where you can drop their food and vacuum out their waste. This can be replicated in the Discus aquarium although tank bred Discus have been raised in bare bottomed tanks and aren’t fussy as to their decor.
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The natural discus habitat is tannin-stained and contains lots of wood and leaves over a bed of fine sand. Discus need frequent feeding so the filtration system must be able to cope with their waste and convert it as ammonia and nitrite must be at zero at all times. Tanks must be mature for Discus and ideally set up for and matured for six weeks before adding them. Discus water qualityĭiscus aquariums should be well filtered with large biological filters, but they don’t appreciate strong water flow so deflect filter outlets onto the tank glass. Use RO water (reverse osmosis,) instead of tap water to provide high-quality soft water every time, and remineralize it to provide electrolytes and help prevent pH crash.
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If your Discus come from breeders in the Far East, they will need soft acidic water and a high water temperature too. In the aquarium, wild Discus are difficult to keep and tolerate nothing else, and although captive bred discus from Germany can tolerate harder water with a higher pH, all Discus need warm temperatures of 28C. Wild discus come from very warm, very soft and acidic waters in the Amazon. A mated pair can be kept in a smaller tank and breeders often keep pairs in 18” cube tanks. Keep them in groups of five or more, and ideally ten or more in order to lessen pecking order and quarrelling amongst themselves. Adult Discus can attain the size of a saucer and because of their body height, shoaling needs, and appetites they need large tanks, ideally four feet long and two feet high for a group.
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